|
The watershed between the glacier-rivers flowing N and
those to the S. is often very narrow, and the sources are
sometimes very close together. We discovered for instance
that there was only a short ride of ten minutes between one
of the sources (the Bergkvísl) of the Thjórsá, and one of the
sources (the Hnjúkskvísl) of the Jökulsá Eystri, which empties
itself in the Skagafjordur.
The surface of the highland between the jökulls, consists
of diluvial and alluvial formations, and on the sand there
is often a mosaic-like layer of small and large stones.
Other places, especially where the mountains in the
process of time have been reduced to stones, which cover
extensive tracts, it is almost impossible to travel on horseback,
on account of the great quantity of stones and their sharp
edges.
In the district in question, the Sprengisandur, in a more
restricted sense, gravel stones and sand are predominant.
Vegetation is very scanty, and consists of the most hardy
mountain plants, and here and there a few, almost stiff
blades of grass. Large patches looking like oases, and covered
with a carpet of grass etc. etc. are to be met with, but only
at long intervals.
The lack of pasturage for the horses is the most serious
obstacle for those who wish to traverse the Sprengisandur,
and to this must be added the dangerous crossing of the
jökulrivers (glacier-rivers). These however need not be
dreaded, as they can partly be avoided, and partly forded in
places where the ground is not so bad; or crossed in boats.
No dangerous river comes from the Tungnafellsjökull; from
the Vatnajökull, or rather the Vonarskard flows the Kaldakvísl;
it joins the Tungnaá, which is crossed in boats near the
Búdarháls. The rivers from the Hofsjökull are therefore those
which render the crossing of the Sprengisandur difficult.
On the S. E., E, and N. E. side of this jökull a whole net
of glacier-rivers rise, which are crossed one by one,
before they form a junction, and the obstacles they present can
be surmounted with good horses. When these rivulets unite
and form the Thjórsá, this river becomes a tremendous
stream, which as a rule can only be crossed at a certain
place in Soleyjarhöfdi, where it is stony and consequently
fordable.
If however the state of the rivers is unusually bad, as is
often the case in hot summers, and after jökulhlaup (tor-
rents) one cannot cross at Soleyjarhöfdi, attempt must be
made to proceed along the border of the Hofsjökull and
cross each stream separately.
By looking at the map, which is not drawn according to
measurements, but from a sketch, one will easily understand
the different river systems in connection with the
Sprengisandur. It must be mentioned that this map is based on
Thoroddsen's, but the distance between the Hofsjökull and the
Tungnafellsjökull appears to be too short.
Stefán Stefánsson, a botanist, and member of the Althing
has given me most interesting information concerning the
vegetation of the Sprengisandur which I regret not to be able
to publish here.
(Geograflsk Tidsskrifi" 1901-1902, Daniel Braun: Sprengisandur.)
J. THE MAIN ROUTE OVER THE SPRENGISANDUR.
begins at Sudur-Thingeyjarsysla and from Bárdardalur's most
southern farm, Mýri. It leads in a S. W. direction over the
sands to the Soleyjarhöfdi (a ford) where the road branches
off, in two directions, one E. of the Thjórsá, the other W.
of the same river.
From Mýri, one rides S. to the Íshollsvatn 1 1/4 hrs. good
pasturage at S. end of the lake, near the ruins of the farm
Íshóll.
From Íshóll to the W. over the mountain, down into the
Mjofldalur, and through this valley to the S. W. to the
pasture Fremri- or Ytri-Mosar, 2 hrs. In the same direction to
another good pasture Innri-Mosar 1/2 hr. From here in the
same direction following the course of the river up to the
barren rocky plateau, towards Kidagilshnjúkur keeping W.
of it, 2 hrs.
Kidagil's ravine is crossed about 2 miles W. of the
junction of the Kidagilsu with the Skjalfandi, and the road continues
to the S. W. (The ravine cannot be passed until its opening
near the Skjálfandi is reached).
Should one desire to stop at one of the pastures near Kidagil,
which are not very good, the main road must be left, and
an E. direction taken, either to a spot N. of the ravine, or
to Áfangatorfur S. of same, in either case 1/2 an hour's ride.
A pasture a little S. of Áfangatorfur, can also be used:
Fljótsdalur near the "Fljót" with Skjalfandafljót (Skjálfandi =
trembling one) but they are all bad.
From the W. part of Kidagil, where the main road cuts
the ravine, the route leads on towards the S. W. Here the
Sprengisandur proper begins, and extends as far S. as
Eyvindarkofaver. The route is continued on the W. side of
a large elongated hill, the Fjórdungsalda. A little moss and
grass (for sheep) is to be found in the dips. First the road lies
along one of the tributaries of the Kidagilsá, and crosses later
on Kidagilsdrag, and Hældrag, then along Kvíslarbotnar,
Klyfberadrag, all dips, where water sometimes collects, whence it
flows in an E. direction to the "Fljót"; now ascent is made
on the sand plains.
For some time the N. E. corner of the Hofsjökull has
been faintly seen; now it is quite distinct. The
Tungnafellsjökull and the N. W. corner of the Vatnajökull can also be
seen.
The road still leads towards the S. W. along the
Fjordungsvatn (an elongated lake) due W. of the Fjórdungsalda,
which dries up sometimes in summer.
Kidagil—Fjórdungsalda 3 hrs. Along the Fjórdungsvatn
1 hour.
The direction is now S. W. (from the S. end of the
Fjórdungsvatn, the side road branches off to the Jökuldalur in
the S. E., 3 hrs.) over the watershed, between the N. and
S. The sand plains soon incline towards the S. The
Thjórsá cannot be seen. The Hofsjökull lies to the right,
the Tungnafellsjökull in front to the left. The Fjórdungakvísl
(kvísl — rivulet) which comes from the Tungnafellsjökull, is
crossed, which is very bad in Spring.
Fjórdungsalda—Fjordungakvísl 2—3 hrs. (Half an hour
later the Arnarfell's Road branches off towards the W. over
the Thjórsá; cairns indicate the place) Hafurmýri-Drag and
-Kvísl are crossed. (The side road to the Jökuldalur,
branches off here for people coming from the S.). Arnarfell id
mikla due W. Here the Thjórsá is visible. The Hreysikvísl
is crossed.
Fjórdungakvísl—Hreysikvísl 4 hrs. Hreysikvísl —
Eyvindarkofaver 3/4 hr.
Eyindarver or -kofaver is a great swampy lowland covered
with grass, looking like a bay formed by the Thjórsárdalur,
splendid pastures.
Tents are pitched to the S. in the bogs near the ruins of
Eyvinds Kofi (kofi = hut). From Eyvindarver to the S. W. along
the Thjórsá to Soleyjarhöfdi.
Immediately after leaving Eyvindarver the road lies across
the Eyvindarkvísl, the bed of which is rather soft, then to the
W. by the Sandvatn, a small lake, and immediately after to the
E. by the Eyvindarvatn, a somewhat larger lake. Then along
the east side of a large grass grown dip, the so called
Thúfuver, the borders of which are marshy and dangerous. The
Thúfuverkvísl flows from the E. through the bog to the
Thjórsá. One must beware of the Thufuverkvísl on account
of its swampy banks. One proceeds towards the E. along the
river until a little waterfall is reached, which comes down
over basaltic rocky ground. The crossing is safest, over the
very rocky place just above the waterfall. Shortly afterwards
one arrives at a place for tents, where there is a sheepfold,
which the people from Rangarvalla Sysla use in the autumn
when they go to the mountains to collect the sheep. Grass
and Salix Glauca grow here. In half an hour one arrives at
the Soleyjarhöfdi, an elongated hill along the Thjórsá.
Eyvindarver—Soleyjarhöfdi 2 hrs.
To the S. of the Soleyjarhöfdi is a ford, the only one
across the Thjórsá until the inhabited districts in the S.
are reached.
From the E. bank, head is made for a little island, and from
there to the W. bank. The route is indicated by cairns at all
three places. The bed of the Thjórsá is stony. The most E.
tributary is the narrowest and deepest. In spring when the
snow melts, and also, when it is very hot, one cannot cross
the ford. W. of ford, grass and Kofi.
If the Sprengisandur is to be traversed in the opposite
direction, the traveller advances along the E. side of the Thjórsá
between the Hofs- and the Tungnafellsjökull. Between the
jökulls, the Fjórdungsalda appears like a flat hill rising above
the table land. The route is, as heard, on the W. side of it.
From the Fjórdungsalda to the N. E. towards Kidagil, and
then straight ahead.
K. THE ROAD W. OF THE THJÓRSÁ TO ÁRNESS-SYSLA.
from the Soleyjarhöfdi, runs S. W. along the river Thjórsá.
The following rivers must be crossed: the Knifá, which
is sometimes difficult (1 hr.); the Kisá (from the
Kerlingarfjöll) with glacier water, hence the bed of the river is soft
and unsafe, (2 hrs.) the Miklilækur, (1/2 an hour); the tract
of land between this river and the Kisá is called Kjálkaver,
pasturage; — the Dalsá (P/a hrs.) the tract of land from the
Miklilækur to the Dalsa is called Lodnaver, good pasturage.
From the Soleyjarhöfdi to the Dalsá (5 hrs.).
From the Dalsá, the road leads on to the Geldingsá ( 1 1/2
hrs.), then to Gljúfurá (1 1/2 hrs.), to the Blautakvísl (1 1/2 hrs.,
the tract between them, Starkadsver) — Upper Skúmstungnaá
(1 1/2 hrs.), Lower Skúmstungnaá (1 hr.) the tract between
them is called Skúmstungur—Kofi and good pasturage.
Dalsá — Skúmstungur 7 hrs.
Here the road runs to the S. W. from the Thjórsá over
the hill, Sandfell, to Rauda (1 hr.) then past a ravine with
a waterfall, grass and a sheepfold (1 hr.). Then comes the
Fossa (1/2 hr.) and now one is in the Thjórsárdalur, where
there are ruins of many farms. This is "Icelands Pompeii",
on account of the 14—16 ruins of farms lying half or
completely covered by lava, pumice-stone and ashes, which were
destroyed by volcanic eruption. Step by step the horses work
their way through the loose ashes after the last inhabited
farm and birch-thicket has been left behind. The valley bottom
is black and dark, and also the hills are dark; only in the
middle of the valley does a bright red hill show itself, which
glows in the sun, as if it was still ablaze as on the day
when the subterranean fire broke forth and melted the hill.
The steam from the hot springs ascends from its foot and
a number of small craters are to be seen on the plain. We
think with horror of the awful scenes which have taken place
here, when, as tradition says, the sky was obscured by the
rain of ashes, whilst the lava streamed out and destroyed the
prosperity and fruitfulness which had hitherto provided the
existence of the farms. Now everything has disappeared; the
grass will grow no more here and human beings are shut
out for ever from this valley, where generation after
generation lived and shared their pleasures and sorrows. Gauk
Trandilssons farm now lies in ruins, and the neighbouring
farm is sunk in rubbish. Here lived his lover, for whose
sake he was murdered by his foster-brother.
The Sandá is passed. To the W. of the stream, wooded
slopes, after 1/2 an hours ride the traveller arrives at the
farm Skridufell and here the journey ends.
Skúmstungur — Skridufell (4 hrs.).
L. THE ROAD E. OF THE THJÓRSÁ TO RANGARVALLA-SYSLA.
From the Soleyjarhöfdi to the Tungnaa (2 days). The road
leads across sands similar to those of the Sprengisandur,
perhaps a little more hilly.
The traveller rides along the E. side of the Thjórsá, keeping
about 1 mile from the river at first, in order to avoid the swampy
banks of various small streams. After a ride of 3l|y hrs., the
traveller approaches the banks of the river and arrives after
'/a hr. ride. at a good pasture Hvannagil; a little further N.
there is another grass plot, close to the Thjórsá. The place
is easily found, as the Thjórsá forms here a beautiful water-
fall, between rocks and islands. The waterfall is called either
the Hvannagil Foss (foss == ^waterfall) or the Kjalkaver Foss
(the smoke is seen in distance) after Kjalkaver which is op-
posite to it.
From the Soleyjarhöfdi—Hvannagil 4 hrs.
From Hvannagil towards the S. leaving the banks of the
Thjórsá, and skirting the E. side of the Budarhals. Imme-
diately after leaving Hvannagil, the traveller crosses the
Svarta, and then rides over the watershed down towards the
Kaldakvísl a rushing stream of glacier water, hardly fordable
so far S. (perhaps near Illugaver lying to the N. E.).
Near the Kaldakvísl, there is a poor pasture called Klifs-
hagavellir, where a hut has been constructed.
Hvannagil— Klifshagavellir 2 hrs.
From Klifshagavellir along the Kaldakvísl in a S. W. di-
rection, (the Budarhals to the right) to the junction of the
Kaldakvísl with the Tungnaa, and then along this river till
it joins the Thjorsu; here is a pasture Here the Tungnaa
is crossed in boats; at present there are two boats, which the
shepherds use in spring and autumn, but they are gene-
rally on the S. bank of the river, so that one cannot cross;
one of them ought to be stationed on the north bank.
From the Tungnaa the road leads in a S. direction to the
nearest farm Galtalcekur.
M. THE ARNARFELL ROAD.
If coming from the S. one cannot cross near the
Soleyjarhöfdi, or if on the way from the N. one has an idea that a
crossing here will be impossible, the route along the
borders of the Hofsjökull is the one to be taken. In this way
each of the Jökulkvislar (glacier rivulets) can be crossed
sedparately, before they empty themselves into the Thjórsá
thereby making this river unfordable.
Coming from the N. one branches off to the W. (after
having crossed the Fjórdungakvísl) towards the Thjórsá's main
tributary (cairns indicate the place) passing some hills, which
hide the tributary for some time.
The route is now a little N. of Arnarfell id mikla the most
important mountain on the border of the jökull. Then the
Thjórsá's main tributary is crossed, and subsequently the so
called Thjórsárkvíslar. At times some of them can be like
torrents, and it is necessary to be cautious on account of the
beds and banks being soft and swampy.
As a rule there are not many difficulties to be surmounted.
After 2 hrs. slow riding across the stony sands (where
the rivers constantly change their course), the border of the
moraines is reached. These extensive moraines of sand and
gravel, form a girth in front of the jökull. The road now
leads towards the S. W. along the moraines, in the direction
of Arnarfell id mikla, very slow riding is necessary, as the
ground is exceedingly rocky. Arnarfell id mikla consists of
two groups of mountains, around, and between which, the
jökull (glacier) sends down minor glaciers. From these
proceed the so called Arnarfellskvíslar.
The most northerly of these streams is crossed, then the
traveller rides past the most northerly group of mountains,
(encircled by two minor glaciers) past the highest point of the
most southerly group, (at the foot — luxuriant vegetation)
and comes to an excellent pasture, sheltered by the S. side of
the mountain.
Sprengisandur-main route S. of the Fjordungakvísl —
Anarfell id mikla 4 hrs.
From Arnarfell id mikla, across the Arnarfellskvislar, then
the S. E. corner of the jökull is skirted, following the outer
border of the moraines, where Salix Glauca, Angelica, and
grass grow, all the Múlakvíslar are crossed here, and then there
is only a short distance to the Miklakvísl, from there, a very
short ride to the pasture Nauthagi, near the hot springs, at
the foot of a group of mountains on the border of the jökull.
Arnarfell id mikla — Nauthagi 2 1/2 hrs. From Nauthagi
to the S. W. across the Blautakvísl broadest part S. of the
Kerlingarfjöll (about '/a hr.). The bed of the river is not very
bad. After having crossed the river, one rides in a semicircle
to the Soleyjarhöfdi following the Blautakvísl in a S. E.
direction.
Nauthagi—Soleyjarhöfdi 2 hrs. The road now leads
towards the S. following the Thjórsá as already described. One
can also ride in a direct southerly line to the Dalsa, over
the plateau, where the road is easily found in good weather;
here it may be mentioned, that one can go direct from
Arnarfell id mikla to the Soleyjarhöfdi in 3—4 hrs. under
favourable circumstances, and if the rivers are not swollen, but
it is hardly worth while attempting this, it being better to
take the longer and safer road by Nauthagi.
One can ride to the Kerlingarfjöll from Nauthagi as well
as from the Soleyjarhöfdi in a few hours.
It takes about 5 hrs. to ride from the Soleyjarhöfdi to the
pasture (not very fertile) near the Askardsd, in the centre of
the N. side of the Kerlingarfjöll. One proceeds between the
Kerlingarfjöll and the Hofsjökull. From the Áskardsá to
Gránanes on the Kjölur (3 hrs.).
N. SIDE ROUTE TO THE JÖKULDALUR
(Jökuldalur = Nýidalur) in the Tungnafellsjökull.
If the horses are heavily laden, and halt is not made at
the pasture near Kidagil, the distance to be covered in one
day between the pastures Innri-Mosar (in the Mjófidalur) and
Eyvindarkofaver will be rather great. But the days journey
may be broken by branching off for a couple of hours
towards the E. to the Jökuldalur (= Nýidalur) in the S. part
of the Tungnafellsjökull, where there is pasturage. Coming
from the North the road branches off to the S. E. (after having
crossed the Fjórdungsvatn) and keeps in the direction of the
S. end of the Tungnafellsjökull. In foggy weather, it is
advisable to go on to the Fjórdungakvísl and follow this river
towards the Jökuldalur. Coming from the S. the road
branches off a little S. of the Fjórdungakvísl.
Mjófidalur — Jökuldalur 9 1/2 hrs. Jökuldalur —
Eyvindarkofaver 5 hrs. one can travel from the Jökuldalur direct
to Arnarfell id mikla in 6—7 hrs.
The number of hours stated for each journey is calculated
on the horse being kept at an even pace. If one has a good
horse, and not too many pack-horses, the time can be greatly
shortened, as the following instance shows. Six members of
the Althing (parliament) left Mvri on the 18th July at 1-30 p. m.
and arrived at Skridufell on the 20th at 8 p. m.
Myri — Mosar. ............ 2 1/2 hrs.
Mosar — Kidagil .......... 1 1/2 "
Kidagil — Arnarfell ....... 9 1/2 "
Arnarfell — Nauthagi...... 2 "
Nauthagi — Dalsá ......... 5 1/4 "
Dalsá — Skúmstungur ..... 4 "
Skúmstungur — Skridufell . 2 "
They rode from one inhabited place to another in 54 1/2 hrs.
(halts not included) which shows that they were dauntless
riders, and had excellent horses. A still quicker ride from
the south (36 hrs.) has been accomplished by Jon Oddsson.
He did not take much rest, the first time, was at the Kisá.
(5 hours during the day,) the second time, near
Eyvindarkofaver where he intended to pass the night, but the swans
frightened his 3 horses so that they tried to get away, and he
continued his journey after a short rest of 3 hrs. Later on he
rested a little near Kidagil. He covered the distance from
the 7th - 8th Sept. 1897, when he returned home, after having
accompanied me across the sands.
0. FROM THE SPRENGISANDUR TO THE EYJAFJARDARDALUR.
For Travellers wishing to go direct to the interior of the
Eyjafjardardalur from the Sprengisandur, it is best to start from
a place situated about 1 1/2 hrs ride S. of the Fjórdungsvatn.
The road curves to the NW. towards the Laugafell then
to Eystri-Pollar, then NNE. to the Ullarvotn, and E. down
into the valley.
The traveller makes straight for the Laugafell, which is
visible as an isolated cupola shaped mountain, rather far to
the N. of the Hofsjökull and crosses the Bergvatnskvísl (=
Bergkvísl) turning with this river to the right.
After leaving the river, a ride of 10 minutes across the
watershed, to the tributaries of the Laugakvísl, one of the
sources of the jökulá eystri, one follows this river, with the
Laugafell to the left, and the hill Laugalda to the right. At
the foot of Laugaldas W. side, are the hot springs (Laugar)
near a tributary of the Laugarkvísl which rises N. of
Laugalda.
Pasturage here, fairly good.
From the Sprengisandur Road to the Laugafell 3 1/2 — 4 hrs.
Jökuldalur—Laugafell 6 1/2 - 7 hrs. From Arnarfell id mikla
across the Thjórsárkvíslar to the N E. and along the routes
stated, to the Laugafell 9 — 10 hrs.
From the Laugafell to the N. W., over stony ground (cros-
sing a stream) to Eystri-Pollar (near the Jökulá-eystri) (1 1/2
hrs.), good grass here. The place is easily found if one does
not go too far N. It must also be mentioned here, that there
are no landmarks to form a guidance on this route. In foggy
weather it is best to proceed along the tributary of the
Laugakvísl, then along the Laugakvísl itself, to the Jökulsá-eystri,
and on to the Eystri-Pollar. One is now on the
Vatnahjallavegur (vegur = road) which from the Kjalvegur leads direct to
the mountain Vatnahjalli, near the interior of the
Eyjafjardardalur. This is a very bad and stony road, especially the
latter part of it.
From Eystri-Pollar in a N. N. E. direction (a very rocky
tract of land) to the Ullarvotn, three small lakes, in a
barren district, to the west of the Vatnahjalli. The Vatnahjalli,
after which the road is named is a prominent mountain on
the border of the Eyjafjardardalur. Having reached the S. end
of the lakes, the traveller rides along the E. side of them in a
N. direction with the isolated mountain Hjallahnúkur to the right
until the border of the Eyjafjardardalur is reached. Towards the
end of the road there are old cairns, which are not always
in the best places. Descending into the valley through a
laborious passage, the road leads to the N. to Tjarnir (a farm) on
the E. side of the river.
To the W. of Tjarnir, and a little further S. there is a la-
bourer's cottage.
Eystri-Pollar—Ullarvotn .......................... 2 hrs.
Ullarvotn—Border of the valley .................. 1 1/2 "
Border of the valley—Bottom of the valley ....... 1/2 "
From there to Tjarnir ........................... 1/2 "
Eystri-Pollar—Tjarnir ............................ 4 1/2 "
Tjarnir—Akureyri ............................. 8 — 10 "
There is still to be mentioned, that one can ride from the
Eyjafjardardalur to the Laugafell through the Sölvadalur and
the Thormódstadadalur up into the highlands. In the valleys
the road is very bad, but it is better when on the pla-
teau of the highland, where it is said, a few cairns are
to be found. The ascent is not so steep, nor so difficult as
from Tjarnir.
By studying the sketch-map, the traveller will not find it
difficult to plan his route. The ride from one pasture to the
other need not take more than 8 — 10 hours.
The passes in the interior of Iceland, near the Jökulls and
the Sprengisandur are not so dreadful as formerly supposed.
Travelling is comparatively easy, and will be still more so,
when the roads are properly marked off with cairns.
|
nächstes Kapitel